Calculate how much home you can afford based on income and debts
Prospective homebuyers in the early stages of home shopping, anyone who wants to know their realistic budget before talking to a lender, and financial planners helping clients.
Calculate the maximum home price and loan amount you can afford based on gross income, monthly debts, and the 28/36 lender guideline — before you start house hunting.
$95K income, $400/month car payment, $200/month student loans — can afford up to $385K home with 20% down at 6.75%, keeping total housing at 28% of income ($2,217/month).
💡 Rule of Thumb: Lenders use 28/43 rule. Housing ≤ 28% gross income, total debts ≤ 43% gross income.
$0
Based on 28/43 rule
$0
Including taxes & insurance
Find your home budget in 4 simple steps
Input your annual gross income — before taxes. Include all sources: salary, bonuses averaged over 2 years, and consistent overtime.
Enter all current monthly debt payments: car loans, student loan minimums, credit card minimums, personal loans. Do not include utilities or subscriptions.
Enter how much you have saved for a down payment and the current interest rate from your lender or pre-approval letter.
See your maximum home price, monthly payment breakdown, and DTI ratios. Aim for the comfortable range, not the maximum allowed.
Lenders determine how much mortgage you qualify for using two key debt-to-income ratios. The front-end ratio (housing ratio) compares your proposed monthly housing payment — principal, interest, taxes, and insurance — to your gross monthly income. Most conventional lenders prefer this below 28%. The back-end ratio compares all monthly debt payments (housing plus car loans, student loans, credit cards) to gross income, with a typical ceiling of 43%.
The calculator uses the 28/43 rule as a starting point, but actual qualification depends on your credit score, down payment size, loan type, and lender's specific guidelines. Borrowers with excellent credit (740+) and substantial down payments often qualify at higher DTI ratios through automated underwriting systems.
Your "PITI" payment — Principal, Interest, Taxes, and Insurance — is what lenders use for the front-end DTI. If your down payment is below 20%, PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance) is also included. HOA fees are factored in for the back-end calculation. These add-ons can significantly increase the true monthly cost of homeownership beyond the base P&I payment.
There is an important distinction between what a lender will approve and what is financially comfortable. Lenders calculate the maximum you qualify for based on income and debts — they do not account for your savings goals, lifestyle expenses, childcare costs, or long-term financial plans.
Interest rates have a dramatic impact on buying power. At 6%, a buyer with $5,000/month available for housing can afford approximately $830,000. At 7%, the same buyer can afford only $745,000. A 1% rate increase reduces buying power by roughly 10%–12%. This is why affordability shifts so dramatically with market rate changes.
A larger down payment reduces the loan amount, eliminates PMI (if reaching 20%), and lowers your monthly payment — all improving affordability. However, depleting savings for a larger down payment can leave you financially vulnerable. Most advisors recommend maintaining at least 3–6 months of expenses in reserve after closing.
Understanding the 28/43 rule and mortgage qualification
Front-end: Housing ≤ 28% gross income. Back-end: All debts ≤ 43% gross income. Lenders use the lower of the two to determine max loan.
$400K home, 20% down: Need ~$100K income. $300K home: ~$75K income. Rule: Annual income should be 3-4x home price for comfortable payment.
Every $100/mo in debts reduces buying power by $20K. Pay off car = gain $80K buying power. Student loans hit hardest (long-term debt).
20% down = no PMI, better rates, lower payment. 10% down = add PMI ($200/mo). 3.5% FHA = higher payments, MIP for life on some.
1% rate increase = 10-15% less buying power. At 6% can afford $400K. At 7% only $350K. Rates matter more than down payment size.
Lender says $400K max. Comfortable = $350K. Leave room for life, savings, emergencies. Max qualification is not recommended spending.
Quick answer: $100K-120K depending on debts and down payment.
Detailed breakdown with 20% down ($80K):
Monthly costs on $320K loan at 7%:
Income needed (no other debts):
With existing debts:
With 10% down ($40K):
With 3.5% FHA ($14K down):
No! Here's why comfortable ≠ maximum:
Lender approves you for $400K home:
What lenders don't consider:
Better approach - 25% rule:
Real example:
John makes $100K, approved for $450K
John buys $350K instead
Realistic range: $140K-180K depending on debts.
$50K income breakdown:
No existing debts, 20% down:
With $300/mo debts:
With FHA (3.5% down):
Challenges at $50K income:
Yes, but with conditions - must be consistent:
What lenders will count:
1. Guaranteed overtime (2+ year history):
2. Regular bonuses (2+ year history):
3. Commission (2+ year history):
What lenders WON'T count:
Documentation needed:
Example approval:
Base salary: $60K
Yes, but lenders are conservative - expect 75% rule:
Conventional loans:
FHA loans:
VA loans:
Example scenarios:
Scenario A: Buying duplex, living in one unit
Scenario B: Buying single-family rental
First rental property tips:
Combining incomes is powerful - but combines debts too:
Both on the loan (recommended if both have good credit):
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Example: Combined is better
Person A: $70K income, 780 credit, $200/mo debts
Person B: $60K income, 740 credit, $400/mo debts
Separate (A only):
Combined:
When to keep separate:
Person A: $90K income, 800 credit, $0 debts
Person B: $45K income, 620 credit, $1,000/mo debts
A only:
Combined:
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