Window Replacement Cost Calculator

Window cost overview

Frame materials, compared

• Vinyl: most popular — low cost, good insulation, no painting, 20–40 year life. Best value for most homes.
• Fiberglass: strongest and most energy-efficient, barely expands or contracts; costs more.
• Wood / wood-clad: beautiful and classic, best insulation, but needs maintenance and costs the most.
• Aluminum: durable and slim, but conducts heat (poor insulation) — better for mild climates.

Popular brands: Andersen and Marvin (premium), Pella (mid-to-premium), Milgard and Simonton (value) — higher tiers pair better frames with warmer glass and stronger warranties.

Window cost by pane type and casement, sourced

Two figures below come from an outside source rather than this calculator's own engine — useful as a market check against the tool's results, and priced on a different basis than the tables elsewhere on this page.

materials, per pane — the glass unit itself, not the full installed window. Least efficient; rare in new installs outside historic-preservation jobs. Standard for most 2026 replacements — an insulating gas gap between two panes. Most energy-efficient; worth it in extreme-cold climates or passive-house builds. This is the glass itself, not the installed window — it sits underneath, not on top of, the per-window totals elsewhere on this page. The calculator's own glazing adders above price the same upgrade path as a flat add-on to a full installed window, not the bare pane.

Casement, installed, any material or size: $400–$2400 per window. Spans every frame material and size this style comes in — vinyl at the low end, wood/fiberglass at the high end. This page's own vinyl-double-pane-standard baseline for casement ($290–$650, in the style table below) sits inside the low end of that range for the reason the bay/bow section further down explains: one source prices a single configuration, the other spans every material and size the style comes in.

Source: This Old House — How Much Do Casement Windows Cost? (2026) — retrieved 2026-09-08.

Double-pane window cost by style, vinyl frame

Every figure on this page starts from a double-pane baseline before any Low-E, argon, or triple-pane upgrade is added — that is the calculator's own $0 reference point in the glazing section below. Vinyl is the most-installed frame material, so the table below prices all nine window styles this calculator supports at that exact baseline: double-pane glass, vinyl frame, standard size, unit plus installation labor, no interior trim, capping, or blinds added on.

Same source as the rest of this page — this calculator's own engine — so the double-hung row ($230–$525) matches the overview bullet above, and the bay ($1,100–$2,700) and bow ($1,650–$3,900) rows match the frame-material table further down. Picture windows are the cheapest style to replace because they have no moving parts and the smallest frame-to-glass ratio; bow windows are the most expensive because each unit is really three to five window sections joined at angles, with a build-out structure behind it. Swap vinyl for wood, wood-clad, aluminum, or fiberglass and every row above moves — see the frame-material breakdown further down this page for exactly how much.

What add-ons cost on top of the window itself

Every number above and below is unit plus installation labor only. Three optional line items sit on top of that, per window, and this calculator prices all three so you can see whether skipping them is worth it for your project:

A like-for-like swap where the old trim is in good shape needs none of these — that is why the overview figures at the top of this page don't include them. Add interior trim if the old casing is painted shut or water-damaged, exterior capping if you never want to scrape and repaint wood trim again, and window treatments only if you want them installed same-day rather than sourced separately. Run your own combination through the calculator above — each add-on is a toggle, not a forced cost.

Glass packages & energy savings

Double-pane with a Low-E coating and argon gas is the value sweet spot for most climates. Triple-pane adds R-1 to R-2 and costs 15–30% more — worth it in extreme cold or for a passive-house build. Look for the ENERGY STAR label for your climate zone.

Every per-window figure elsewhere on this page assumes plain double-pane glass — that's the calculator's own $0 baseline. Upgrading adds a flat amount per window on top of it: double-pane with Low-E coating adds $40; Low-E + argon gas fill adds $80; and triple-pane adds $150 per window, regardless of style or frame material.

Replacing single-pane windows with ENERGY STAR double-pane can cut heating and cooling bills 12–24% — roughly $100–$400 a year for the average home.

Annual energy savings by what you're replacing

The payback figure above assumes a typical mixed-window house. The calculator's own energy model actually varies by what you're replacing, not just what you're installing — a single-pane original is losing far more heat than a 1990s double-pane unit, so the same upgrade saves a lot more on the older window. The table below is that model's own numbers for a 10-window home, before the count scaling described underneath it:

These are per-10-window figures, and they scale with your project size up to a cap: the calculator multiplies each number by windows ÷ 10, capped at 2× for any job of 20 or more windows. A 6-window job sees roughly 60% of the figure above; a 15-window job sees about 150%; anything at or past 20 windows tops out at exactly double the table value, since the model doesn't assume savings keep climbing linearly forever in a home that only has so many windows to begin with.

Bay & bow window cost by frame material

The "Specialty" row in the cost table above ($800–$2,500) is sourced to This Old House and doesn't break out by frame material. This calculator's own engine does — bay and bow windows price differently by material, same as every other style on this page:

Window unit plus replacement labor, this calculator's own figures for each material. Every bay and bow material tier above — vinyl included — exceeds the Specialty row's $800–$2,500 ceiling; vinyl bay comes closest ($1,100–$2,700, $200 over) and fiberglass bow runs highest ($3,250–$6,700). That's a genuinely pricier tier the This Old House-sourced Specialty figure doesn't capture, not an error in either number. Select bay or bow and your frame material in the calculator above for a figure matched to your window.

Estimating a whole-house job: cost by number of windows

The per-window figures above answer "what does one window cost." Most homeowners are really asking a different question: what does replacing every window in the house run, once the multi-window labor discount kicks in? This calculator applies a discount at three thresholds — 8% off labor at 3 windows, 12% at 6, and 18% at 10 or more — so the per-window price actually drops as the job gets bigger. The table below runs that discount against the page's own vinyl double-hung, double-pane baseline (the same one the style table above uses) at five common project sizes:

Vinyl double-hung, double-pane, standard size, no interior trim, capping, or blinds added — the calculator's own baseline case, run at each window count. Swap in bay, bow, or wood-clad windows from the tables above and your whole-house total moves well past this range; this table isolates the count discount from the style and material choice so the two effects don't get blended into one number. If you're also replacing exterior doors in the same visit, the door installation calculator uses the same kind of per-unit-plus-labor model; for the full house budget beyond windows and doors, the home maintenance calculators hub lists every project this site prices.

Repair or replace, and insert vs. full-frame

Repair when the frame is sound and only the glass seal failed (foggy panes) or hardware broke — a glass-only swap is far cheaper. Replace when frames are rotted or warped, windows won't open/close, or you feel drafts.

• Insert (pocket) replacement: new window into the existing frame — cheaper and faster, if the frame is in good shape.
• Full-frame replacement: everything down to the studs — needed for rot or to change size, costs more.

Questions to ask, red flags, warranty & timing

Ask & watch for:

• Insert or full-frame — and why for my house?
• What's the U-factor and SHGC, and is it ENERGY STAR for my zone?
• Itemized per-window pricing with the multi-window discount shown.
• Get three quotes — window pricing varies widely. Beware high-pressure "today only" deals.

Warranty: quality windows carry limited lifetime frame/glass warranties, plus a separate installer labor warranty — register to keep it valid. Timing & rebates: book in the off-season for better rates; the federal 25C window credit ended after Dec 31, 2025, so check state and utility rebates via DSIRE.

A worked example: putting the four tables together

Here's how the pieces on this page combine into one number. Take a common case: a 10-window house, all double-hung vinyl, replacing worn-out single-pane glass with Low-E-plus-argon (the +$80 per-window adder from the glazing section above), and adding interior trim ($75–$200 per window) because the old casing won't be reused. Run vinyl double-hung's baseline unit cost ($150–$350) plus the glazing adder (+$80) plus trim ($75–$200), times 10 windows, at the 18% labor discount 10 windows qualifies for: the total comes to $3,706–$7,735 installed. The energy-savings table above puts single-pane-to-Low-E-plus-argon at $350 a year for a 10-window home, so this project's own payback works out to about 5 years — half the low end of the installed cost, divided by the annual savings, which is exactly the formula the calculator itself runs on every result it shows. None of the four numbers above (baseline, add-on, count discount, energy savings) had to be looked up twice to get there — they're the same four tables on this page, added together.

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